Three degrees in late September.  Four laps including the stadium climb.  Twenty nine years old.  These would seem like three fairly disjointed statements were it not for me.  I had decided that this was the morning for my first race.

As I left the house my wife presented me with a Green Hippo horn, “on the off chance you pass someone.”  Thanks for the support.  She was just pissed because an ankle injury was keeping her from running.  So with that resounding vote of confidence, I loaded the trusty bike on to the Wagon and was gone.  It took an hour to get to the race.  More than enough time to convince oneself of ones own idiocy.  I went over it a hundred times.  I wasn’t a racer.  That wasn’t why I rode.  I didn’t need the competition.  But I wanted to do this to experience all of the MTBiking world.

Two large Tim’s coffees and a Boston Creme later and I arrived.  Young, fit bodies astride high-priced cool race rigs.  Then there was me.  Steel Breezer, rigid, with wool socks and my hippo horn.  Race teams, clubs, families and friends.  Then there was me, alone, but wait.  My budy Stu showed for support.  God love the man he tweaked my brakes and didn’t make one comment about the hippo.

Senior sport gets called to the line.  Stu turns on my flashing commuter light, “so nobudy runs into you on the downhills.”  It was like having my wife there.  I couldn’t help but notice that some of the kids were looking at me and giggling.  As were waiting for the start I remember thinking just finish.  Go!  That’s when it hit me that it had rained last night.  The gorge was going to be slick.  Stayed mid pack on the climb.  Got held up in the singletrack, some of the kids had a hard time with the conditions.  Made a huge mistake and went for the granny with a muddy drivetrain and chainsucked my way to a broken chain half way through the first lap.  No problem, just pull out the Ritchey tool and fix it.  Wrong that’s back on the step at home where you were fiddling with your peddals that morning.  So I ran it out to the start/finnish and borrowed a chain tool.  I got passed by nearly everyone.  Lost about 15-20 minutes.  But I kept going.

Reeled in some of the kids on the third lap.  Overheard one say to another as I passed them on the grass climb, “that old fuck with the hippo and the light just got us.”  Cool.  Finnished 18 min out of first in my division.  The course was outstanding. Moral: It’s OK to challenge yourself now and again, and never underestimate how much MTBiking can make you feel IT.

While you are waiting for the chain to dry, take this oppurtunity to check your derailler pulleys, rear cassette, and front chainrings for caked up grease. Use an old toothbrush to scrub these parts clean, if necessary — keeping these clean will help keep your chain clean longer.

After drying the chain with a rag, reapply lubrication to your chain. Degreasing your chain frequently will make your bike shift better and its drivetrain last longer.

Every couple of months (for a cyclist riding 2-3 times a week — degrease more or less depending on your riding frequency and the amount of grime in your riding environment), we recommend that you remove the chain from your bike and soak it in degreaser. Degreasing machines like the BeBox do a great job of getting the majority of the dirt off of your chain, but soaking your chain in degreaser is the best way to get all of the dirt out. Use your trusty old toothbrush again to scrub away any remaining dirt stuck in the chain.

A little good can be overdone, however. Every time you rejoin a link in your chain, that link becomes a little less strong, so don’t remove your chain more frequently than you need to for cleaning.

Finally, under normal wear and tear, your chain will slowly stretch. If this stretch becomes pronounced, it will wear your chainring and cassette cogs in such a way that it will be necessary to replace all three if you ever need to replace your chain. To prevent this, measure your chain every so often. 12 links should equal 12 inches out of the bag. If it measures 12 1/8″ or longer, replace your chain with a new one.

• Learn to identify poison oak in all its forms. I go by the stem which doesn’t change from season to season. Poison oak main stems are orangy-tan and smooth, usually a little wider than a pencil, and the side branches are thinner than a pencil, between 1/2 and 4 inches long, and sometimes slightly rough or bumpy. Side branches never come off the main stem in pairs, rather, they alternate positions along the stem. Also, leaves usually come off the main stem and side branches at the ends, not along the length of the stems. We all know about the three shiny leaves, but that only helps when there are leaves, which is about half the year in arid regions. The stems have oil too, so you can get it even when there are no leaves.
• Ride around all foliage and bare twiggy branches when you can. When you are climbing, you have time to look at what you are brushing through, but if you get in the habit of dodging all branches when you are able, you will cut your exposure, especially downhill.
• If you know you’re going to hit some on a trail, try the Technu pre-exposure lotion. It helps form a barrier that slows down the oil’s penetration into your skin.
• Carry prepackaged wipes like baby wipes. When you know you’ve hit a branch or two on the last run, stop and wipe all exposed skin surfaces. A squirt from your water bottle will really help too. Put a towel and little bottle of Dawn in the car, and when you come in, wash. Getting the invisible oil off A.S.A.P. is the best treatment, because it takes a little while for it to get into the skin.
• Remember you can get the oil on your otherwise unexposed skin by transfer from exposed surfaces. Get in the habit of keeping your hands and sleeves off your face and other delicate body parts. Wear a sweat band so you don’t wipe your eyes with the back of your gloves (Big mistake!) Also be careful when you go behind that bush! Always assume your knuckles, gloves and sleeves have been hit, and keep them away from your legs and fly too. Ladies need to take care when pulling down shorts not to rub your exposed shorts or sleeves down your hips or thighs.
• Wear long pants and sleeves when the weather permits, and learn how to take off your clothes when you’ve been out in the poison oak. You want to keep the outside of the fabric away from your skin! Don’t forget on laundry day what you are handling! Assume your shoes are always contaminated. Wash your hands after tying the laces.
• Whenever you can, shower A.S.A.P. in cool water, because heat opens your pores.Use a lot of suds and scrub gently.
• Scratching makes the blisters worse, and really doesn’t make it feel any better. Once you’ve washed the oils off, scratching won’t make it spread, even if the blisters are oozing. Some areas may take a few days to erupt in blisters, but it’s from exposure to the oil, not your body fluids. Try an ice cube instead of your fingernails for relief.
• Go see your doctor and talk about your chronic poison oak exposure. Having a good strong steroid cream like 2.5% hydrocortisone on hand to apply early can reduce your reaction. Apply several times a day and try not to scratch. It will help dry it out. If you really get nailed, like from landing in a bush, you may want a cortisone injection or oral steroids, and it’s better to get treated early than when you are really miserable. Antihistamines like benadryl also help reduce your allergic response. Note: steroids inhibit your immune system. Keep them out of dirty wounds that may get infected, or you could end up with a run away infection. Cover last week’s cuts and scratches with a band aid or bandage to keep poison oak out. Beware of hot, red and very tender wounds and use an antibiotic ointment, not cortisone.
• Call out when you see it to warn the riders behind you to take evasive action.
• Go volunteer to work on trail days if you don’t get poison oak! We need you to help cut it back off the trails for the rest of us, and you earn lots of bonus points for your community service. We will love you for it, really!

Tools and Supplies Needed:

Chaintool

Directions:

Mountain bike chains require a chain tool to take off your chain. This tool takes several forms, from a plier-like device to a small screw tool that slowly pushes your chain pin out. Although more difficult to use, I’d suggest that you buy the smaller screw-type tool, allowing you to bring it along on rides.

• Unscrew the chain tool, so that the chain can fit on the last groove on the tool.
• Place the tool on the chain, so that when the pin the chain tool pushes out will be facing out, away from the bike. Although this will make screwing the pin out more difficult, it makes the task of rejoining the chain much easier.
• Slowly turn the chain tool until the pin is nearly out. DON’T PUSH THE PIN FULLY OUT! From experience, it is nearly impossible to get back in (if you do — don’t worry — just remove the link and start over on the next link. Just remember to check your chain length before you shift into the largest chainring and the largest cassette gear on your bike to make sure the chain isn’t too short) . It may be necessary to unscrew the chain tool and check your progress from time to time. Try wiggling the chain from side to side to see if it is loose enough to split apart.

Fact: Thousands of cyclists around the world die in crashes each year. Hundreds suffer permanent brain damage. Many of these are experienced, careful riders– riders like you. Most of these head injuries can be prevented if people just wore helmets. If you think that wearing a helmet is a hassle or just isn’t cool, think about how “cool” it will be to be in a wheelchair for the rest of your life. Today’s helmets are lightweight, fashionable, cool and inexpensive — especially compared to an emergency room visit.

Helmet types

There are two basic helmet types, hard shell and soft shell. Hard-shell helmets have a thin plastic surface, while soft-shell helmets have only a soft foam surface. Hard shells are preferable over soft shelled helmets ‘cuz when a hard shelled helmet hits rough ground it will skid rather than catch on the ground – which could possible break your neck.

If you have a crash and your helmet takes a significant hit, replace it right away. An impact can damage a helmet’s foam core, meaning that it may not protect you as well as a new helmet could.

What to look for in a helmet

Rating: Look on the inside of the helmet: It should have a green or blue Snell sticker meaning the helmet passed the Snell Foundation’s safety tests.

Fit:You must have a good fit. A snug fit means that if your head hits more than once, the helmet will stay in place. Most brands of adult helmets come in two or three sizes, and you can make them fit even better by adjusting the straps or putting the included foam pads around inside. Note: Do NOT wear your helmet tilted back on your head, it won’t protect your skull in a frontal impact.

How to Check For A Good Fit

1. The helmet sits level on your head.
2. If you move your head while the helmet is fastened, it does not move around on your head (side to side, front to back).
3. With the straps tight, you can’t possibly get the helmet off.

If the helmet fails any of these, either adjust the straps, put in bigger pads, or try another size.

Ventilation: A helmet’s ventilation depends on front-to-back flow. Good air flow comes from long, wide air vents, and air passages (otherwise known as troughs) between the vents.

Weight: Less expensive helmets are usually only ounces heavier than expensive ones– and most cyclists notice no difference. If you think you need an ultra-light helmet, test-ride a regular one to make sure.

Aerodynamics: Many cyclists worry that some features, such as sun visors, will increase wind resistance. Don’t worry; a helmet’s design won’t slow you down unless you’re going Mach 1.

Cost: You can get a good Snell-rated bike helmet for $30 to $80. Hard shells cost a little more than soft. More costly helmets usually aren’t much safer, but they look cool, have better ventilation, and weigh less. Note: Before you buy a helmet, always try it on or have your bicycle store’s staff fit you.

Trying not to listen he ties his riding shoes and searches intently for his helmet – the helmet directly below the feet that moments before he laid said helmet between. He is so looking forward to this ride; the conditions probably won’t be this good again for months. With spring fastly approaching there could be 2 – 3 months of mud and virtually unrideable trails.

“Here’s your water bottle, and your dog,” she says, handing him a bottle and a blue leash; attached to one very excited 1 year and 2 day old Chesepeak Bay Retriever.
MUCH, MUCH, MUCH MOPING AND DRAGGING OF FEET… “Come on Chester, were going for a ride,” muttered with less then obvious enthusiasm.
“Oh come on, who knows you both just might like it?” He can’t help but notice the calculation in her eyes when she says this – the house empty and to myself.

The parking lot is deserted. Thank god. Dog and Bike are unpacked. Chester digs the woods, and knows these trails. Every second day without fail Chester and Owner decend upon Randy’s Trails for much romping.

What a day. Traction is as good as it gets, with only a couple of icy bits. The dog preforms flawlessly. He picks ligns like a pro and has the endurance of Overand ( due to almost daily runs at Point Plessant with running-wife ). Until, apparently it becomes hunt for stick in middle of the trail time. Of course, right at a sketckthy downhill, off-camper, right-hander. Tic the dog and stack hard into a thankfully forgiving 10 foot alder. Chester is a bit freaked. As man, dog and machine shake it off a moment of ‘connection’ occurs. The dog and MTN Biker bond. This is wicked. Back at the car 1.5 hours later there’s nothing but good feelings. It was a blast. A great day, and another great ride.

Since then the dog and I have shared the trails another couple of times. Not always that perfect, usually always fun. The dog really pushes me in the technical sections and its a blast to pass him on the downhills. He’s a great training partner; a bonus when busy lives keeps my usual riding bud tied to a desk. But the largest bonus of all – get home and he’s destroyed – sleeps the rest of the day. Peace! Yes! Those of you with Retrievers know what I mean.

Steel is real, and may the Redsox win the pennant in my lifetime.

Brent “getting used to being a dog owner’ Nicholson

Not so much Road Trips; “Eight hours into the Porcupine Rim Trail and we decided to pick up the pace.” This sentence leads me to two conclusions; one they are aliens, and two, even given that weird kind of ability, I’ll never be allowed to have that kind of vacation. Think about it. “Honey, can I take all the vacation money and head across the continent and possibly kill myself in some remote MTN biking Mecca?” he asked from behind the fridge door cowaringly.

But this is the scene I am inundated with every time I pick up a magazine or watch alittle Fattrax. I am sure that there is epic quality riding in Moab, Crested Butte, etc., but that I’ll probably never see it. Does that mean that I should feel less then fulfilled as a MTN biker? Yeah probably.

The need to travel is endemic to all of us who MTN bike. If not the North Shore in Vancouver then where? News Flash! Maybe you can find adventure closer to home. In my own province of Nova Scotia, there are two rides I have heard lots about but had never found the time for. The first is less then two hours down the road in the Wentworth Valley, and the second on Cape Breton Island in a town called Mabou.

Man is not an Island unto himself. Plus I don’t carry any tools. Therefore an accomplise was called for. Every hero needs a sidekick. I the Calfless Wonder have, dun dun dun dah, Mango Man. After noticing the Ride Beacon was in the sky our two heros loaded the Yellow Submarine and hit the road. (The Yellow Submarine is a classic 91 Toyota Previa.) Apparently the marriages were going to surrive our little adventure for we had tacit approval from our ever understnding and tolerant Life Partners.

“Mango, did you remember the beer, the tools, the tent, the bags, the food, the pump, the map, the cell phone, the ball gloves, the Sega, the beer, the mud tires, the beer, and the lights?”
“Why yes Wonder I did.”
“Cool, I got my lucky hat, I guess we’re good to go.”
“Yes Wonder it appears so, but did you remember your Tony Kid Calf Shaper?” snickeringly jabbed Mango Man.
“Funny man! But who’ll be laughing when your broken down on the trail and you have to come crawling to…(it was that second that The Calfless Wonder realized he couldn’t even change a tire and relied completely on his sidekick for mechanical asssistance and stammered…)”Just drive.”
“Yes of fearful freak.”
“For the last time it’s fearless friend!”

Two pastry breaks and one hour and fourty minutes later our heros arrive in Wentworth at the Valley Inn. A weirdly tucked out of the way joint, reasonably priced and used to the antics of Sky-bums and Dirt-Heads. Unloading the Yellow Submarine our heros could not contain they’re glee and performed the little known, soon-to-be-mountain-biking-on-an-unknown-trail-staying-in-a-hotel-room-drinking dance.

Well that its it so far. I’m actually going to ride the trail. Stay tuned for the continuing road trip adventure of The Calfless Wonder and Mango Man.

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:
Soap
A dish washing brush
A toothbrush
lube – not WF40! use a high grade lube such as Pedros
Sponge
Towel

1. Mix the soap with half a bucket of warm water. Using a sponge wash down the entire bike.
2. Give the bike a once over. This will allow you to find any spots that you missed or didn’t come off in the first wash. Use the brush to get rid of any dirt from the tight places the sponge couldn’t fit.
3. Rinse off your bike with a light spray. Make sure that you don’t use full stream when rinsing your bike. A full stream can wash away grease from bearings.
4. Dry your bike and lube up the chain and any other area that needs grease.

Never pressure wash your bike. The bearings will not be able to keep the water out.

Make sure to check these things prior to your ride:

1. Brake tension- check to see that you have sufficient tension in the brake cable by pulling on your brakes hard. Your brake pads should hit the rim of the wheel before your levers hit the handlebars.
2. Brake pads- look at the brake pads by releasing the straddle wire. Check to make sure they have some substance. This will depend on the type of pad you get – compare a new set to your current set.
3. Derailleurs- Check gear cable tension and also that your derailleurs are set up properly by running your bike through the all of the gears.
4. Chain- make sure your chain has no stiff or damaged links. Do this by spinning the cranks backwards. If the chain jumps, it means that a link may be damaged.
5. Handlebars- check to make sure the bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars is tight.
6. Stem- make sure that your stem bolt is tight in the frame.
7. Seat and seat post- make sure that your seat is at the correct height and that the clamp is on tight.
8. Tire pressure- squeeze the sides of the tires to make sure that they are properly inflated. They should give just a little. Use a tire gauge if you have one for a more accurate reading.
9. Wheels- check that the wheels are straight by spinning the wheels and listening for a scuffing noise. This noise is the rim hitting the brake pads. And means your rim is untrue.

Now give your bike a quick ride to make sure everything is ok. After that you’re ready to role!

Just recently the weather here on the East Coast went truly wintery (I had ridden three times a week up until Christmas). Add to that the fact that the Breezer and the winter bike – my wife’s old Giant; an unsuccessful foray into mountain biking – were both on the verge of major mechanical repair and one arrives at the saddest of all phenomenoms, the ‘husband-cave-in’. I ran.

Sure I know, no better cardio fitness, weight bearing, but this is running – without being chased. I hate running. I’m not built to run. Most importantly, its not fun. Well here’s the thing, it hurt and all, but I had a ball – outdoors with my wife and dog. Our two separate passions are a good thing for our marriage. Healthy couples need interests outside of each other. But our busy lives coupled with my 3-5 bike rides a week and her daily runs had recently been making both of us feel a little isolated. I mean I married her because I love her company. It was great to be with her. And she was great. Just the right amount of encouragement mixed with competition. It was also really cool to reaquaint myself with my accomplished wife. I tend to forget sometimes that she’s incredibly good at things other than picking husbands.

I know, have I forgotten that this is a mountain biking site. No. Here’s the point. I hadn’t even realized it but the bikingwas getting stale. Ride to get better, to keep the beer-gut at bay, because everybody is fitter and more technically proficient. What about why we all fell in love with mountain biking – because it’s shit eating fun. I had a great time running with my amazing wife and our dog. As a matter of fact I have since ran for two weeks straight. I have never wanted to bike more in my entire life. Come on January Thaw!

Morals:

• Unless you’re training for the Olympics or are paid to ride don’t forget to enjoy other activities.
• The people you love might miss you – you freaking dirt head you… hell you probably miss them if you think about it.
• Mountain biking should always be fun.