Archive for the ‘Biking Information’ Category
Keeping your chain clean is the best way to keep your drivetrain shifting smooth and to prevent premature wear on your components. We suggest that you purchase a chain degreasing box (we use the one produced by Bebox) to speed your degreasing process. These sandwich your chain between brushes that clean with degreaser as you slowly turn the pedal of your bike backwards. The poor man’s solution is to by a spray on degreaser or use a rag and a toothbrush with degreaser.
While you are waiting for the chain to dry, take this oppurtunity to check your derailler pulleys, rear cassette, and front chainrings for caked up grease. Use an old toothbrush to scrub these parts clean, if necessary — keeping these clean will help keep your chain clean longer.
After drying the chain with a rag, reapply lubrication to your chain. Degreasing your chain frequently will make your bike shift better and its drivetrain last longer.
Every couple of months (for a cyclist riding 2-3 times a week — degrease more or less depending on your riding frequency and the amount of grime in your riding environment), we recommend that you remove the chain from your bike and soak it in degreaser. Degreasing machines like the BeBox do a great job of getting the majority of the dirt off of your chain, but soaking your chain in degreaser is the best way to get all of the dirt out. Use your trusty old toothbrush again to scrub away any remaining dirt stuck in the chain.
A little good can be overdone, however. Every time you rejoin a link in your chain, that link becomes a little less strong, so don’t remove your chain more frequently than you need to for cleaning.
Finally, under normal wear and tear, your chain will slowly stretch. If this stretch becomes pronounced, it will wear your chainring and cassette cogs in such a way that it will be necessary to replace all three if you ever need to replace your chain. To prevent this, measure your chain every so often. 12 links should equal 12 inches out of the bag. If it measures 12 1/8″ or longer, replace your chain with a new one.
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Tools and Supplies Needed:
Chaintool
Directions:
Mountain bike chains require a chain tool to take off your chain. This tool takes several forms, from a plier-like device to a small screw tool that slowly pushes your chain pin out. Although more difficult to use, I’d suggest that you buy the smaller screw-type tool, allowing you to bring it along on rides.
- Unscrew the chain tool, so that the chain can fit on the last groove on the tool.
- Place the tool on the chain, so that when the pin the chain tool pushes out will be facing out, away from the bike. Although this will make screwing the pin out more difficult, it makes the task of rejoining the chain much easier.
- Slowly turn the chain tool until the pin is nearly out. DON’T PUSH THE PIN FULLY OUT! From experience, it is nearly impossible to get back in (if you do — don’t worry — just remove the link and start over on the next link. Just remember to check your chain length before you shift into the largest chainring and the largest cassette gear on your bike to make sure the chain isn’t too short) . It may be necessary to unscrew the chain tool and check your progress from time to time. Try wiggling the chain from side to side to see if it is loose enough to split apart.
Why should I wear a helmet?
Fact: Thousands of cyclists around the world die in crashes each year. Hundreds suffer permanent brain damage. Many of these are experienced, careful riders– riders like you. Most of these head injuries can be prevented if people just wore helmets. If you think that wearing a helmet is a hassle or just isn’t cool, think about how “cool” it will be to be in a wheelchair for the rest of your life. Today’s helmets are lightweight, fashionable, cool and inexpensive — especially compared to an emergency room visit.
Helmet types
There are two basic helmet types, hard shell and soft shell. Hard-shell helmets have a thin plastic surface, while soft-shell helmets have only a soft foam surface. Hard shells are preferable over soft shelled helmets ‘cuz when a hard shelled helmet hits rough ground it will skid rather than catch on the ground – which could possible break your neck.
If you have a crash and your helmet takes a significant hit, replace it right away. An impact can damage a helmet’s foam core, meaning that it may not protect you as well as a new helmet could.
What to look for in a helmet
Rating: Look on the inside of the helmet: It should have a green or blue Snell sticker meaning the helmet passed the Snell Foundation’s safety tests.
Fit:You must have a good fit. A snug fit means that if your head hits more than once, the helmet will stay in place. Most brands of adult helmets come in two or three sizes, and you can make them fit even better by adjusting the straps or putting the included foam pads around inside. Note: Do NOT wear your helmet tilted back on your head, it won’t protect your skull in a frontal impact.
How to Check For A Good Fit
1. The helmet sits level on your head.
2. If you move your head while the helmet is fastened, it does not move around on your head (side to side, front to back).
3. With the straps tight, you can’t possibly get the helmet off.
If the helmet fails any of these, either adjust the straps, put in bigger pads, or try another size.
Ventilation: A helmet’s ventilation depends on front-to-back flow. Good air flow comes from long, wide air vents, and air passages (otherwise known as troughs) between the vents.
Weight: Less expensive helmets are usually only ounces heavier than expensive ones– and most cyclists notice no difference. If you think you need an ultra-light helmet, test-ride a regular one to make sure.
Aerodynamics: Many cyclists worry that some features, such as sun visors, will increase wind resistance. Don’t worry; a helmet’s design won’t slow you down unless you’re going Mach 1.
Cost: You can get a good Snell-rated bike helmet for $30 to $80. Hard shells cost a little more than soft. More costly helmets usually aren’t much safer, but they look cool, have better ventilation, and weigh less. Note: Before you buy a helmet, always try it on or have your bicycle store’s staff fit you.
Fresh snow, blanketing harder – older snow below. The sun’s new found warmth turns it into the consistency of gravel. The need to ride has become oppressive. Just can’t seem to spend the time on the trainer like last year. Must be spooked by all the press on impotence. “You said that when the dog hit a year you would take him for his first ride.”
Trying not to listen he ties his riding shoes and searches intently for his helmet – the helmet directly below the feet that moments before he laid said helmet between. He is so looking forward to this ride; the conditions probably won’t be this good again for months. With spring fastly approaching there could be 2 – 3 months of mud and virtually unrideable trails.
“Here’s your water bottle, and your dog,” she says, handing him a bottle and a blue leash; attached to one very excited 1 year and 2 day old Chesepeak Bay Retriever.
MUCH, MUCH, MUCH MOPING AND DRAGGING OF FEET… “Come on Chester, were going for a ride,” muttered with less then obvious enthusiasm.
“Oh come on, who knows you both just might like it?” He can’t help but notice the calculation in her eyes when she says this – the house empty and to myself.
The parking lot is deserted. Thank god. Dog and Bike are unpacked. Chester digs the woods, and knows these trails. Every second day without fail Chester and Owner decend upon Randy’s Trails for much romping.
What a day. Traction is as good as it gets, with only a couple of icy bits. The dog preforms flawlessly. He picks ligns like a pro and has the endurance of Overand ( due to almost daily runs at Point Plessant with running-wife ). Until, apparently it becomes hunt for stick in middle of the trail time. Of course, right at a sketckthy downhill, off-camper, right-hander. Tic the dog and stack hard into a thankfully forgiving 10 foot alder. Chester is a bit freaked. As man, dog and machine shake it off a moment of ‘connection’ occurs. The dog and MTN Biker bond. This is wicked. Back at the car 1.5 hours later there’s nothing but good feelings. It was a blast. A great day, and another great ride.
Since then the dog and I have shared the trails another couple of times. Not always that perfect, usually always fun. The dog really pushes me in the technical sections and its a blast to pass him on the downhills. He’s a great training partner; a bonus when busy lives keeps my usual riding bud tied to a desk. But the largest bonus of all – get home and he’s destroyed – sleeps the rest of the day. Peace! Yes! Those of you with Retrievers know what I mean.
Steel is real, and may the Redsox win the pennant in my lifetime.
Brent “getting used to being a dog owner’ Nicholson
Every bike needs to be cleaned and lubed every once in a while. Your bike should also be washed after especially dirty rides. Washing your bike is easy and does not take that much time, so there is no excuse to not have a clean bike! After you wash your bike, make sure to check all of the areas that require a lubricant and lube ‘em if needed.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED:
Soap
A dish washing brush
A toothbrush
lube – not WF40! use a high grade lube such as Pedros
Sponge
Towel
- Mix the soap with half a bucket of warm water. Using a sponge wash down the entire bike.
- Give the bike a once over. This will allow you to find any spots that you missed or didn’t come off in the first wash. Use the brush to get rid of any dirt from the tight places the sponge couldn’t fit.
- Rinse off your bike with a light spray. Make sure that you don’t use full stream when rinsing your bike. A full stream can wash away grease from bearings.
- Dry your bike and lube up the chain and any other area that needs grease.
Never pressure wash your bike. The bearings will not be able to keep the water out.
Every once in a while, you should check your bike to ensure that it is in perfect working condition. It may also be a good idea to perform pre-ride checks. This may not matter if you are just going to the store, but if you are going for a long ride, it’s a good idea to make sure that your steed isn’t going to break down. The amount of time that it takes to check your bike is definately worth it. You don’t want to break down in the middle of nowhere.
Make sure to check these things prior to your ride:
- Brake tension- check to see that you have sufficient tension in the brake cable by pulling on your brakes hard. Your brake pads should hit the rim of the wheel before your levers hit the handlebars.
- Brake pads- look at the brake pads by releasing the straddle wire. Check to make sure they have some substance. This will depend on the type of pad you get – compare a new set to your current set.
- Derailleurs- Check gear cable tension and also that your derailleurs are set up properly by running your bike through the all of the gears.
- Chain- make sure your chain has no stiff or damaged links. Do this by spinning the cranks backwards. If the chain jumps, it means that a link may be damaged.
- Handlebars- check to make sure the bolt that clamps the stem to the handlebars is tight.
- Stem- make sure that your stem bolt is tight in the frame.
- Seat and seat post- make sure that your seat is at the correct height and that the clamp is on tight.
- Tire pressure- squeeze the sides of the tires to make sure that they are properly inflated. They should give just a little. Use a tire gauge if you have one for a more accurate reading.
- Wheels- check that the wheels are straight by spinning the wheels and listening for a scuffing noise. This noise is the rim hitting the brake pads. And means your rim is untrue.
Now give your bike a quick ride to make sure everything is ok. After that you’re ready to role!
Advanced riding requires advanced fitness to be sure. By incorporating a few simple techniques into your technical repertoire, you too can emerge from the gnarliest single track with a stupid smile instead of an open wound. In some ways, mountain biking is a game of momentum. But momentum sometimes yields loss of traction and wipeouts. The equalizer in this equation is balance. Balance is basically your butt, or more precisely, what you do with it.
For example, a sketchy left-hand corner may secretly desire to defeat your side knobs and bring you to a crashing halt. You can foil this insidious plot by leaning the bike sharply to the left while hanging your butt out to the right, keeping your center of mass over your bottom bracket and driving those side knobs directly down into the ground. The smaller the frame, the more sloping the top tube, the easier it is to slap your bike from side to side. (They’re also lighter and more rigid.) This is why most au courant frame designers have gravitated to the overgrown BMX look.
Good balance will also help you climb steep pitches. You need to apply enough pressure on the rear tire to keep it hooked up and you moving forward, but enough pressure on the front tire to prevent you from looping out over the back and hooking up your head with the soil.
Conversely, descending extreme slopes obliges you to keep enough weight on the front wheel for maximum braking power and enough weight on the rear to prevent the bike from catapulting you down slope like a bean bag when you stub your front wheel into a rock.
Rule of thumb:
Going up? Move forward on the saddle.
Going down? Move back.
For the steepest climbs, you need to be on intimate terms with the extreme nose of your saddle. Slide all the way forward, grab those bar ends and concentrate on pedaling smooth circles up the smoothest line. Gut-busting climbs are where clipless pedals really shine. The ability to haul back on one pedal with your hamstring while mashing the other pedal with the opposing leg’s quads radically increases your torque and the range of slopes you can climb. Clipless pedals are worth their weight in gold.
On technical, free-fall drops, you butt has to be over the rear axle. Here, unrestrained momentum is your enemy. The key to keeping things under control is your front brake, which is incomparably more efficient than the rear brake. Put your waistline behind the rear of the seat and maintain just enough speed to keep moving by “feathering” the levers. I like to get so far back that I actually place my chest in the seat itself.
Sometimes the only way to clean a section is to come to a complete halt, balance for an instant and then move off on a new line. Called a track stand, this is the second most important skill besides a wheelie. It’s also a breeze to practice. Find a grassy area, pedal forward, bring the bike to a stop with your feet in the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions and see how long you can balance. When you start to fall over, pedal just enough to regain your balance and try again.
An even more basic skill is the wheelie. No, you don’t need to be able to ride a figure eight on your rear wheel. However, you do need to be able to confidently loft your front wheel over rock, log and slippery root at speed. A simple yank on the bars timed to coincide with a pedal stroke is often sufficient to get things started. If you have front suspension, a sharp push on the bars can facilitate a rebound that lifts the wheel. Again, practice on a lawn and do not remain clipped into your spuds while you learn. Your butt will thank you, trust me.
A very cool (and very handy) variation on the wheelie is the nose wheelie. This advanced move often immediately precedes the endo, short for “(rear-) end-o(ver-the bars)” for most riders. Unanticipated nose wheelies have a tremendously high pucker factor, but the angle required to launch you into a low orbit is much greater than you think, especially if your butt is all the way back like it should be.
Nose wheelies are essential for those special occasions (like a downhill switchback) when your bike is too long to fit through a turn. Roll past the apex of the corner, loft the rear wheel, swing it to the outside, set it down, reorient the front and off you go. Mastering this move will also give you the confidence to reassert control of the bike when the trail gods throw that unannounced “Nose Wheelie Pop Quiz” at you.
Between the wheelie and the nose wheelie, in terms of difficulty, is the bunny hop, of which there are also two basic species. The simplest involves a two-wheel takeoff and landing. Ride up to the obstacle, leap into the sky (take your bike with you) and use your momentum to carry you forward and beyond the problem with your wheels level throughout the jump. This move, however, has its limitations, chiefly in the height of the obstacle you can clear.
There’s a slightly more advanced derivation that I call the “porpoise” (for lack of a better term) because your bike describes a swooping arc like a dolphin leaping from the water. On this move, ride up to the problem and loft the front wheel first (you are now rolling on the rear wheel). Then, as the front begins to pass over the obstacle, lift the rear by jumping. Push forward on the bars as you jump (your butt goes back). This helps the rear wheel gain elevation. The front wheel will continue to describe a downward arc and contact the ground first. The rear will describe the same arc as you roll forward. The porpoise allows you to save energy because you don’t have to jump as far to clear something. With the basic hop, the bike maintains a level attitude in the air, so the rear tire has to clear the problem before the front wheel can descend. With the porpoise, you adjust the attitude of the bike in the air so that you only have to clear one wheel at a time. The energy you would be using to get distance can now be directed towards gaining maximum elevation or better yet, accelerating down the trail.
For really big logs, gauge the required elevation by lofting the front wheel so that it just kisses the top of the log. That’s your mark. Now jump so you put your rear wheel on that mark. Your muscles will remember how high the front wheel had to go. (You now have rear wheel on log, front wheel on ground. If your butt is not way back, you are also flying over the bars.)
A crude variation of this move drives the big ring into the wood of the log for traction. While it lacks a certain elegance (and is hard on your big ring), it’s an effective way to claw over the biggest logs.
These are obviously dynamic moves that require trial and error to master. To survive the error part, you first have to master the single most important skill of all, crashing softly. The worst wrecks happen when the front wheel suddenly begins to move much slower than the rest of the bike and the attached rider like a dead stop), driving that rider up, over and into the ground.
Endos stink. And they happen. When the light bulb of recognition flashes on in your oxygen-starved brain and that little voice says, “Hey man, I think you’re screwed!” you have to eject. Get away from the bike. Number one, it can take care of itself. Number two, it’s going to be pretty ticked off at you for getting into this unseemly mess. It will add insult to injury by landing on you. Getting free may not be easy if cranked down the retention spring on your clipless pedals.
Whether or not your bike is on your tail, release the bars and bring your arms up to help absorb the impending blow from the ground. (This is why we wear gloves.) If you’re in a slow-speed, pile-driver sort of affair, absorb the impact with bent arms. It beats catching yourself with your face. (This is why we wear helmets.) If you’re in a Wide World of Sports-type endo, dissipate the energy by tucking a shoulder and rolling. This assumes your trajectory isn’t taking you into a large, immovable obstacle, like a tree or rock. And if you are silly enough to get yourself launched in a boulder field, you’re going to have to pay for your foolishness.
Finally, remember that discretion is the better part of valor. This means that you don’t go for the big move on top of a group of hikers. All it takes is a couple of chuckleheads to close a trail. Then where are you going to practice?
Every bike needs to be cleaned and lubed every once in a while. Your bike should also be washed after especially dirty rides. Washing your bike is easy and does not take that much time, so there is no excuse to not have a clean bike! After you wash your bike, make sure to check all of the areas that require a lubricant and lube ‘em if needed.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED:
Soap
A dish washing brush
A toothbrush
lube – not WF40! use a high grade lube such as Pedros
Sponge
Towel
- Mix the soap with half a bucket of warm water. Using a sponge wash down the entire bike.
- Give the bike a once over. This will allow you to find any spots that you missed or didn’t come off in the first wash. Use the brush to get rid of any dirt from the tight places the sponge couldn’t fit.
- Rinse off your bike with a light spray. Make sure that you don’t use full stream when rinsing your bike. A full stream can wash away grease from bearings.
- Dry your bike and lube up the chain and any other area that needs grease.
Never pressure wash your bike. The bearings will not be able to keep the water out.
When you realize that you’re lost in the woods, especially an unfamiliar woods far away from home, you learn something important about yourself. One of two particular personae emerge under these conditions: Bushwhacker or Backtracker.
Last autumn under cover of a mass carpet of red, gold, and orange, my friends and I lost our way on the trail. Still perched on the saddle of our bikes, we found ourselves scratching our heads, looking around for the lost blaze. The leaves covered most everything so completely, there was little to help us find our way. Instead of agonizing about the structure of staying on the trail, we decided to press forward and carve our own path. The reward was a ride filled with more challenging topography and a wilder sense of place.
Backtrackers are from more sensible, logical stock. They stop pedaling. Examine the landscape. Determine the position of the sun. Pinpoint where it was exactly they rolled off the predestined path, so they may rejoin the trail. These are all good qualities. Having a Backtracker in the pack is a great asset to any group ride. They are like a personal insurance policy in case you get lost. The Backtracker will get you back on the trail.
Then there are the Bushwhackers. Pushing forward, Bushwhackers are excited by the unknown that lies ahead. They go wherever their bike may take them. Challenged by obstacles like thick vegetation, random trees, unexpected terrain changes, bushwhacking via bicycle takes every bit of your focus and attention. Plus, that thrill of being a little lost places you smack into the middle of an adventure. Bushwhackers embody the spirit of mountain biking.
If you’re interested in doing a little bushwhacking during your next excursion, here are some tips to make that risky ride a bit more fun and worry free.
Be kind to the woods. Common trail courtesy still applies in the back country. Leave no trace and avoid delicate vegetation. Destroying the woods is not cool so if you get into a really dense area, choose to reroute. Many state forests and reservations allow mountain biking on designated trails, but prohibit off trail riding or hiking. Respect the rules of where you ride. Ride free and wild! You choose your own direction. Bushwhacking puts you in touch with your inner explorer. Bring a friend. If you’re going to get lost for a while, at least you won’t be lonely. A compass and a topographical map are not fun killers. Eventually, you’ll need to find your way out of the bush. Always pack a first aid kit. This should be standard operating procedure. First aid, tire tube repair kit, and hell, throw the cell phone in the pack in case you really get off trail and into a bind. Bushwhacking is great riding but getting stuck in the woods overnight is just not fun. Having a sense of adventure is one thing, but having no sense at all is quite another. Many mountain biking trail guides have “Rescue Indexes.” This tells you how far away, in miles, you are from assistance should you need help. This information can be useful when your tired of being lost and want to be found.
So the next time you hit the trail, consider falling off the map for a while. Your sense of adventure will thank you for it.
We remind you that you should always respect your environment. Do not ride in protected or sensitive areas.
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Here’s one weather prediction you can count on: Some day when you’re deep in the backcountry, the weather will change unexpectedly.
Snow can fall at moderate heights in August. A sudden downpour may hit your ridgeline while you can still see sunlight beaming on a distant peak. Fog and clouds can cling to a coastline even though the sun is shining full force just a half-mile inland.
Unpredictable weather is an inherent risk in wilderness travel. Always come prepared.
- With weather, hope for the best, prepare for the worst.
- Take cues from the clouds.
- Respond swiftly when lightning threatens.
Think Ahead
It’s impossible to know for certain what the weather will do, even on day hikes. Accordingly, a little common sense and a cautious attitude are two of the most important items you can bring with you into the backcountry.
· Hope for the best, prepare for the worst. Carry reliable rain gear and assorted layers of clothing you can wear according to the needs of the moment.
· Investigate a region’s historical weather patterns before you travel. If you plan to hike in Colorado’s Never Summer Wilderness, for example, it’s a good bet you’ll need more than a tank top for the trip. Talk to rangers; call ranger stations in advance; ask locals once you’re in the area; post a note in REI’s Community section asking for input from other hikers; consult guide books.
· Stay informed during your trip. A tiny AM radio can pick up many stations after dark, even deep in the backcountry. You might be able to tune in a station that lies within the region you are exploring. Local forecasts are typically announced near the top of each hour.
Keep an Eye on the Sky
Pay attention to developments in the sky. The shapes and movements of clouds typically foreshadow changes in the weather such as the arrival of warm fronts and cold fronts.
Warm fronts are defined as warm air masses that gradually push out and replace cooler bodies of air. Warm fronts, which move at roughly half the speed of cold fronts, rarely produce violent weather, but the precipitation they generate may linger for long periods. Warm fronts progress from thin, high-level cirrus clouds to low, dense stratus clouds:
· Cirrus clouds: These thin, streaky or wispy clouds sometimes resemble white brush strokes on a blue canvas high in the sky. They may precede the front by as many as 48 hours.
· Cirrocumulus clouds arrive next, often appearing as small puffs or rippled rows, followed by cirrostratus clouds, which tend to wallpaper large areas of blue sky with thin, bright sheets of clouds. Filled with ice crystals, cirrostratus clouds frequently cause a halo to form around the sun. Both cloud types float high in the sky.
· Altostratus (dense, smoky looking, mid-level) and nimbostratus (gray, thick, low-level) clouds come next and usually carry the precipitation, anything from a drizzle to a steady rain or snow. Low-hanging, monochromatic stratus clouds carry moisture and often resemble ocean fog.
Cold fronts involve cold air masses that wedge under warmer air pockets. Cold fronts can develop rapidly and move swiftly, causing temperatures to drop, wind directions to shift and barometric pressure to fall.
· Cumulus clouds are white, puffy, fair-weather clouds. Should these puffs continue to build upward, though, rain may come late in the day.
· Cumulonimbus clouds rise vertically and expand dramatically from their original white, puffy bases to soar high into the upper atmosphere. On other occasions their tops will flatten out into a menacing, anvil-like shape. These classic “thunderhead” clouds foretell potentially severe weather. Cumulonimbus clouds also form independent of cold fronts, blossoming in the afternoon hours of very warm days and producing late-afternoon thunderstorms.
Tip: If late-day storms become a pattern during your trip, rise early each day and cover as much ground as you can during the day’s more stable hours.
Altimeters: If you carry one, or wear an altimeter watch, an approaching cold front can cause your elevation reading to rise even if you’re not moving. If you notice such a rise, this means air pressure has dropped (suggesting thinner air at a higher elevation). This is a hint that bad weather could be on its way.
Lightning
The National Weather Service estimates that 100,000 thunderstorms take place in the United States each year. Lightning is present in all thunderstorms, since lightning causes thunder. How? A bolt of lightning causes the air around it to expand and contract with immense force, producing a shattering sound.
Between 1980 and 1995, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention calculated that in the United States an average of 82 deaths per year were attributable to lightning. A lightning strike sends an electrical current radiating through the ground over a large area. This “ground current” is usually the lethal force in storm-related fatalities.
Never take an electrical storm casually. If lightning threatens while you are in the backcountry, take immediate action:
· Move away from a tall, solitary tree—or any lone, tall object. Isolated high-rise objects are likely strike points for lightning.
· Descend from ridgelines or peaks. Lightning tends to strike prominent topographic features. In threatening weather, move away from high points and exposed areas. Head for lower ground.
· Stay away from water.
· Separate yourself from metal or graphite objects, including external-frame packs, ice axes, trekking poles and crampons.
· Keep out of shallow caves or overhangs. Lightning’s current easily jumps across gaps and could jolt a person standing in the mouth of a cave.
· Insulate yourself from the ground; sit on an internal-frame pack or sleeping pad. Or crouch on the ground with your feet close together. If a ground current reaches you, it most likely will travel only through your feet. Do not lie down (since it expands your contact with the ground).
· Have members in your party spread out by at least 25 feet—farther if possible.
· A strike victim can be revived by CPR.
· Where is the best place to be? Within a group of trees of roughly uniform height in a low-lying area or, as a second option, in a low spot of an open meadow.
How close is that lightning? Use your watch and time the interval between the flash of lightning and the sound of thunder. Thunder travels approximately a mile every five seconds (or roughly 1,000 feet per second). If it takes 10 seconds for the sound to reach you after a flash, the storm is two miles away. If that interval is shorter the next time, the storm is drawing closer.